Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria (Ancoats) Review – Manchester’s First #slabshack

 Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria (Ancoats) Review – Manchester’s First #slabshack

Tucked away down the rolling road of Radium Street in Ancoats, Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria operate their kitchen out of a less-than-charming-looking unit – serving luxurious lasagne and other bites to customers that queue along the street. There’s nowhere to sit and dine; everything is to take-out here; but if you’re looking to take the weight off your feet and enjoy a hot slice of heaven, then you can do that at Foundation Coffee House in the NQ. The Lazy Tony’s team have taken over the kitchen for six months with an expanded version of their menu. Something I am yet, and now eager, to try.

Lazy Tony’s has been on my radar for a few months. Lasagne is something I love to cook at home and cook well – even if I do say so myself – but very rarely order when I’m dining out. It’s something I’ve often found a bit ‘meh’ and I don’t see the point in ordering something I know I can make better at home. Although – let’s be honest – it’s a bit of an effort to cook. Lasagne requires more than one pan; I hate doing the dishes; and I want the meat sauce to have had enough time to cook and mellow.

Imagine my delight, then, when I hear that Ancoats have a kitchen dedicated to my second favourite pasta dish (right after Bolognese). Can it live up to a home-cooked slice of carbohydrate heavy deliciousness? Here’s my Lazy Tony’s Lasagneria review.

My Order:

One of the biggest temptations from their Instagram is these ‘Mozzarella Sticks’. A bountiful amount of mozzarella coated in panko breadcrumbs and Italian herbs, and then deep-fried into these beautifully crispy golden logs. Accompanied with a spicy chilli marinara sauce, I couldn’t resist breaking the chunk in half and watching the melted cheese ooze out over my worktop. These are so moreish. Crunchy, soft, and perfectly seasoned. You get three in an order so there’s plenty to keep you satisfied. The chilli marinara is fiery and full of flavour. A match made in heaven.

The star of the show is obviously the lasagne. I ordered the ‘Classic Slab’ – beef, pork, and pancetta cooked in San Marzano tomato ragu, parmesan bechamel and fresh pasta. Instantly, you can tell that the meat sauce has been allowed to cook for some time. It is flavourful but mellow, and the meat is ground down and tender. The crispy edges are the best bit. If you’re not a crispy edges fan, then you’re not a true lasagne champion. Counting five layers of pasta, this is a hefty slice and earns the title ‘Slab’ with extra merit.

Short Rib Slab – Lazy Tony’s Lasangeria

Just for contrast, I also ordered the ‘Short Rib Slab’ – 28-day dry aged beef short rib in red wine ragu with soffritto (an Italian mirepoix), and mustard bechamel, fresh pasta, topped with sage. Wow! This is indulgent. Overly indulgent, in fact. The short rib is tender and falls apart with every pull. It’s as good as any short rib I’ve had in some fancy restaurants. The red wine ragu is undeniably rich, and so the bechamel is needed to cut through the richness. I think the bechamel could do with a little more mustard. It’d help cut the richness further and bring a little more sharpness throughout.  The sage compliments the ragu beautifully, too.

Tony might be lazy in name, but he’s far from lazy in cooking.

Both are worth the price and effort for collection, but if you’re looking for something a little easier on your tummy then go for the ‘Classic Slab’. It’s mellow and warming, and leaves you wanting just a little more. It has all the delicate flavour that comes from a chef who cares about their cooking and has tended to it for several hours. The ‘Short Rib Slab’, on the other hand, feels a little heavy once you’re halfway through it. Although, if you’re sharing, I’d recommend getting one of each.

The King of Slabs

Manchester’s first and only slab shack is a real winner. If you’re craving home-cooked comfort food, but can’t be bothered with the dishes, then fuck off the pots and pans and get yourself down to Lazy Tony’s. Tony might be lazy in name, but he’s far from lazy in cooking. You’ll also find a selection of mac & cheese on the menu, as well as a few other sides and snacks. They’re closed Monday-Wednesday, but open to orders every other evening of the week until 9pm. You can order through their website or show up at the door. I wasn’t waiting any longer than 20 minutes.

Check out our SocialMuse page for more reviews of Manchester’s local hot spots, such as FUKU at Hatch.

If you’ve enjoyed my reviews, I’d welcome a beer from you! Feel free to send some pennies my way.

Taylor Hilson

If Taylor were a video game character, he’d be a peculiar mashup of Crash Bandicoot and Trevor Philips, with the no-nonsense attitude of Kratos, and the ego of Hudson Horstachio of Viva Piñata fame. If you catch him out and about in the city centre, his is an IPA or a rum and Ting.

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